Royal Oak, MI — It’s been some time since I’ve enjoyed Southern cooking, so when my buddy Jim Miller gave me the heads up about a new concept in Royal Oak where the menu features Southern classics and Midwestern cuisine, I had to check it out! This foodie adventure led me to downtown Royal Oak, right at the corner of 5th and Main streets, where I visited Bandit Tavern & Hideaway.

This unique upstairs/downstairs bar-and-restaurant concept is the latest evolution of the space from Grand Rapids-based Mission Restaurant Group. The culinary endeavor occupies the historic B & C building, which has housed several different restaurants and concepts over the years, including Bastone Brewery, Café Habana, Monk Belgian Beer Alley, and most recently, Jolly Pumpkin. The folks at Bandit Tavern even pay homage to some of the fan favorites from the former eateries by including renditions of previous dishes on the menu.

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I ventured inside and met with some of the top brass at Bandit Tavern to learn more about the new concept and some of the hot menu items. I sat down with Kelly VenderEyk, Operating Partner and General Manager, and Kristin Anderson, the Executive Chef.

Kelly discussed with me the goals of Bandit Tavern & Hideaway, while also providing me with a history on the space’s various concepts over the years and how the underground Hideaway is utilized to provide themed events. Watch highlights from my interview with Kelly below:

Chef Kristin shared with me her personal journey with cooking and how she pulls on her experiences to help craft the menu and lead her stalwart team. Watch highlights from my interview with Chef Kristin below:

I noted during and after the interviews that previous flair of former restaurants and concepts remained proudly displayed throughout the ample, open space of the restaurant. Vintage signage, brewing equipment, and cool keepsakes from the ownership’s families added to the rustic charm and spacious ambiance. The interior reminded me of quite a few Southern eateries I’ve visited over the years; very comfortable and welcoming while providing intimate and cozy seating arrangements for guests.

As Kelly mentioned in the interview, Hideaway Bar underneath Bandit Tavern is its own space within the concept. She even said there are times when folks will walk in and head straight down for the bar, which hosts seasonal pop-up events. During December, the space was decked out for the holidays as Griswold’s Hideaway, inspired by National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation, and as seen below, the venue transformed into Cupid’s Hideaway and was covered in pink and red for the Valentine’s era.

No worries if you missed either of the aforementioned pop-ups because Hideaway is already gearing up for its next transformation, just in time for St. Patrick’s Day! Kelly provided a few details regarding the next event, where the theme will pull inspiration from the television show It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia!

According to Kelly, Paddy’s Hideaway, a play on Paddy’s Pub from the hit FX show that has graced televisions with 16 seasons since 2005, will launch on March 8th. (If you can’t already tell, I’m a huge fan of the show!) Channeling my best Billy Mays, but wait! There’s more! Kelly also teased future calendar pop-ups, including a Wonka, Super Mario Brothers, and even a Nightmare Before Christmas event later this year.

The Food

After hearing the mission, goals, and story of Bandit Tavern/Hideaway, I had worked up quite the appetite. During my interview with Chef Kristin, I felt very inspired by her enthusiasm as she described the menu, dishes that resonated with guests, and the meticulous details of some recipes.

Some menu items, like the Bison Chili, Hot Chicken Sandwich, and Shrimp & Grits, stood out to me during Kristin’s interview. I was definitely keen on trying those dishes, as well as a few other recommended options. I’m always thrilled to see an establishment properly define bison when it’s on the menu. Some restaurants make the pitfall of claiming menu items contain buffalo when, in reality, buffalo are not indigenous to North America. Usually, the case of mistaken meat identity is that it’s actually bison, another member of the Bovidae family, although the two are not that closely related.

So, obviously, I had to kick things off with the Bison Chili! The second this chili was set down before me, the zesty aromas alone sent my salivation into overdrive. This chili comes with lean ground bison, a three-bean blend, tomatoes, scallions, and sharp white cheddar (which had begun attaining a nice melt into the mixture). I frantically unraveled my silverware and began slurping away.

I was informed before the dish arrived that it did pack some heat, and sure enough, I found the heat to be quite approachable and at a level that I’m sure most, if not all, could enjoy. The heat is just enough to wake up the tastebuds and provide a nice little glow within your mouth as the other flavors make their presence known. This chili’s dozen or so seasonings are the unsung hero, taking the depth of flavor to unprecedented levels. I peeped the recipe, and let me tell you, it is quite the advanced tier of chili recipes that I’ve perused.

The bison blends in beautifully with the mix of chili, black, and dark red kidney beans, culminating in a lovely, savory, and hearty chili with a controlled kick of heat. The shredded sharp white cheddar adds that last, nice, gooey finish once the shreds have started melting throughout. And, for those texture enthusiasts, the Bison Chili does come served with the little crackers! Whether for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, this chili hits the spot for any meal and is a must-try! Did I mention that you can also get this served topped with Bandit Tavern’s Mac & Cheese? If not, you’re welcome in advance!

The Caramelized Brussels Sprouts were an item that caught my eye, in part because, quite frankly, I just love Brussels sprouts and make them quite often at home when I cook. I’ve always enjoyed the candied/caramelized approach to certain dishes, and Brussels sprouts are one of them (I’ve even made them like this myself once before). Bandit Tavern serves their roasted sprouts topped and mixed with candied pecans, pig candy (candied bacon), and hot honey. And as you can see above, these sprouts come LOADED!

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The Brussels sprouts were cooked very well and were soft/easy to chew. As someone who has cooked sprouts for too long and too short, there’s nothing worse than tough sprouts or overcooking to the point where the sprouts fall apart the minute you stick one with a fork. Aside from the perfect cook range, these sprouts were fun to scoop up several candied pieces of pecans and bacon, adding sweet and savory jolts to the mix. The hot honey wasn’t all that hot, but it still contributed a sweet and saucy element to the sprouts. While Brussels sprouts might not be for everyone, the Bandit Tavern rendition certainly gets two thumbs up from this foodie.

Talk about a two-handed sandwich! This beasty fried chicken breast features a spicy rub, topped with bread & butter pickles, aioli, and jalapeño napa cabbage slaw on a toasted challah bun. The meal also comes served with a lovely, thick aioli that’s perfect for your side of fries.

I took as much of a bite as possible to get a taste of everything. The spiced rub provided a nice background heat that didn’t overpower the flavor profile, and the coating of the chicken was excellent. Along with a perfect cook, this chicken hit the spot and was quite the sizeable portion. The jalapeño napa cabbage slaw was a surprising standout of the sandwich, capturing a perfect slaw balance between dry and wet consistency with some added heat. Some people can be very particular about their slaw, with some preferring drier adaptations while others enjoy sloppier wet versions. I really enjoyed Bandit Tavern’s rendition, which captured the perfect balance between the two and added some great texture and taste to the overall meal.

As an ardent supporter of anything aioli, I was a big fan of the aioli offerings at Bandit Tavern. The consistency met well with the soft crunch of the fries, solidifying themselves as a perfect side to accompany this Southern staple. While the hot chicken sandwich has become standard at many eateries, Bandit Tavern’s shines as a cut above the rest.

I’m going to get right to the point: this was the best rendition of Shrimp & Grits I’ve had outside of maybe one or two places during my time living in the South. Readers have probably caught on by now that I’m not the biggest on seafood, although I’ll enjoy it occasionally if I’m in the mood or visit an acclaimed seafood establishment. After all, when in Rome!

This particular recipe (absolute money) by Bandit Tavern is a game-changer for its sweet and savory delivery but with an even sweeter twist. I plunged my spoon right in, mesmerized by the colors and stunning presentation of the dish. The first bite was the equivalent of an absolute flavor bomb going off in my mouth. There was spice, perfect portioning of meat and shrimp, and creamy stone-ground cheddar grits with an on-point delivery of texture and sweetness. The hefty, copious chunks of gulf shrimp were smothered within the grits and buttery shrimp sauce and coated with some zesty seasoning.

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Each bite delivered time and again, covering multiple flavor bases. After about two to three bites, I couldn’t help but notice something uniquely sweeter about the grits than other adaptions I’ve tried in the past, and it absolutely worked for the dish. I could even tell the consistency of the grits was modified by it somehow, although the grits still maintained an excellent level of thickness. I inquired and learned that, sure enough, the sweet addition was the inclusion of tomato jam. It immediately clicked in my brain, and all made sense; it was such a great surprise and quickly beloved component. I also loved the tasso (Cajun) ham chunks on top as a garnish with parsley. Tasso ham is a smoked, spiced, and cured meat considered a specialty in Southern Louisiana cuisine.

Needless to say, if I’m ever in the mood for seafood around Metro Detroit, the Shrimp & Grits at Bandit Tavern are going to be a fixture in my seafood rotation.

Another dish where folks can enjoy the creamy cheddar grits, but in their truest grit form (alas, jam-less). Still, in this instance, it’s actually the right call and another reason to give the nod of appreciation to Chef Kristin and her squad.

The cheesy, mashed potato-like quality of the grit mix pairs with the red wine reduction used as a glaze across the beef and grits. So, you’re getting a crafty cheese and wine pairing complemented by a sensationally tender piece of well-seasoned beef. The braise was perfect, and every bit of the short rib was drenched in the reduction sauce, providing a remarkable finishing taste. The beef short rib and the grits are a dish-match whipped up in heaven’s kitchen.

Don’t just take my word for it! I brought some leftovers of the short rib to my co-worker and Foodie-At-Arms, Juan, and he ate every remaining ounce of meat down to the bone, to the point he was licking the bone clean! And yes, Juan very much wants to go check out Bandit Tavern now!

Even though I was quite stuffed from sampling some of the featured items, I mustered (not to be confused with mustard) what I could to manage a few bites of the Brisket Slider, a menu item from the Chef’s Lunch Specials which is available until 4 p.m. And I am glad I did! Even just two bites were enough to sell me on wanting to come back in the future to order several of these.

The brisket melted in my mouth, and I was really digging the barbecue sauce. The light cabbage slaw didn’t distract from the main attraction but had enough strands to contribute a nice texture crunch and subtle influences of flavor. The pickle, of course, rounds out this wholesome little dish with its classic crunch and piquant taste.

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Discovering great eateries such as Bandit Tavern (plus the addition of a cool bar event space underneath) makes me wish I ventured to downtown Royal Oak more often, and I only live about 5 minutes away! The welcoming and big room concept sets up for a great experience made even more exceptional by very hospitable and seasoned staff, some of whom have been with the company for over a decade and been along for the ride through multiple concepts. I witnessed several attentive servers managing multiple tables during the lunch rush. I overheard at least one table where I observed the server being very helpful in explaining the menu and guiding the patrons through their options.

The food quality is quite exceptional in its own right, with knock-out Southern dishes like the Shrimp & Grits or Andre’s Hot Chicken Sandwich. And you can’t forget the Midwestern takes on Bison Chili or Braised Beef Short Rib, all of which hit the spot across the boards in terms of taste, presentation, and approach to the dish. Bandit Tavern and Hideaway are great options to consider the next time you’re in downtown Royal Oak or looking for a fun holiday event or pop-up experience to check out!

For more information on Bandit Tavern or Hideaway, click here.