The history of Detroit-style pizza: All roads lead back to Buddy’s

Pictured: Beautiful artwork by local street artist @Fel3000ft showcasing the synergy between Buddy’s Pizza and Detroit

Detroit, MI — I believe most Michiganders would agree that of the various food items our state is known for, there is perhaps none more internationally renowned than the Detroit-style pizza. While yes, we are indeed the “cherry capital of the world,” based on my national and international travels, that appears to be more of a Michigan-known fact and point of pride. Whenever I’ve brought up Michigan’s cherry dominance to folks in the south or the west, the reaction was usually that of surprise. Similar instances occurred with things like pasties, coney, or Better Made chips, among other things. However, there is Pure Michigan pride in knowing that Detroit’s history and namesake are being served to millions around the globe in the form of a square-shaped pizza.

Detroit is known for many things; some of the big ones are automotive, Motown music, techno, and pizza. The history and origins of the Detroit-style pizza is a subject of doughbate (I’m allowed one pizza pun here) for some, dating back over 70 years. While some outside of Michigan may have little interest in this aspect, it’s important to Michiganders, and we take pride in things we’re known for. It ties in with the spirit of our state and Detroit. That of a comeback story, hard work, ingenuity, and a word thrown around a lot these days in our state: grit. A story showcasing that giving 120% can pay off in the end. A story of a state, city, and pizza all on the rise (okay, two pizza puns).

FULL SECTION: MI Foodie Adventures Blog

Today, we get to enjoy iconic Detroit-style pizza from Buddy’s, Loui’s, Cloverleaf, Shields, and Jets. All with slight variations and different techniques when it comes to creating their Detroit-style pizzas. Either way, the result is usually the same: a delicious square-shaped pizza, LOTS of cheese, zesty sauce on top, crunchy/buttery crust, and corner slices. And while I have tried nearly all of the aforementioned eateries (Cloverleaf, I’m coming for ya next!), I want to be clear that in this post, I’m not here to claim any are above the other in terms of quality. This post is meant to state what should be the obvious: that Detroit-style’s origin hails from Buddy’s Pizza, and regardless of the disputes between chains/families over the years, we should all be grateful that we get to not only enjoy a unique take on pizza but that it’s put Detroit on the gastronomical and international map.

Two years ago, Buddy’s founded National Detroit-Style Pizza Day to celebrate its 75th anniversary and all that is Detroit-style pizza and the recognition it yielded our state. On June 23rd, Detroit-style pizzerias across the nation are called upon to honor the history, style, and roots of where the style began. The 23rd is also Buddy’s Pizza Day in Detroit. Former Detroit Mayor Dave Bing and the City Council formally recognized this day to credit Buddy’s Pizza for putting Detroit on the map and showcasing the city’s innovation. With such an important upcoming day for Detroiters and pizza enthusiasts everywhere, I knew I had to find a way to share the story behind Buddy’s Pizza and the Detroit-style pizza. Coincidentally, I was in luck; reporter/author Karen Dybis just so happened to write a new book, Detroit-Style Pizza: A Doughtown History, exploring the history and humble beginnings of our namesake pizza. I grabbed my gear and was off on another pizza adventure!

I arrived at the original Buddy’s at Six Mile and Conant in Detroit on Tuesday around noon. I was there to meet up with Karen and Buddy’s Chief Brand Officer, Wes Pikula, to discuss and learn more about the history of Buddy’s and the Detroit-style pizza. Our hazy skies and poor air quality from the Canadian wildfires kept my outside exposure limited. Still, I took what time I could to admire and, in a way, pay respects to the establishment for its contributions. Not only from the standpoint of a foodie, but as someone who also worked various pizza jobs for several years in my high school and college years and still holds high respect for the labor of love that goes into pizza making. The mural by @Fel3000ft, commissioned in 2016 to honor Buddy’s 70th anniversary, lights a fire in your soul upon first impression, as it perfectly represents the marriage of Detroit’s image and history with Buddy’s Detroit-style pizza. As a born Metro-Detroiter, it brought a smile to my face and a sense of pride.

Pictured: @Fel3000ft‘s amazing artwork outside of the original Buddy’s in Detroit.

Some may look at the original location (pictured at the top of the article) and see a regular older building resembling many small businesses typically found along a busy roadway in Detroit. But to think that is where a style of pizza originated nearly 80 years ago that is currently made all across the globe with our city’s name attached, to me, is a cause worth celebrating. As I would soon learn from Karen, renditions of Detroit-style pizza have appeared in international restaurants such as Dubai, Seoul, and many more. How cool is that?!

Pictured: art and historical chefs/documents displayed at the original Buddy’s Pizza

I walked in, observing many of the photos and artwork, documenting the rich history of pizza in Detroit and its famous makers over the years, as well as famous Detroit sports icons enjoying slices of Buddy’s pizza. I met with Karen and Wes and began learning the story of Buddy’s and Detroit-style pizza. While Wes talked Buddy’s and the hype of Detroit-style pizza over the years, Karen gave me the wonderful history and full breakdown of the style’s origin, what led up to its creation, and the makers and families involved who probably had no idea how big their conception would eventually grow.

Pictured: The genius behind it all — Gus Guerra (Photo credit: Buddy’s Pizza/Franco PR)

The style’s origin dates back 77 years, when Gus Guerra put the first square pie in the oven at Buddy’s. The restaurant opened in 1946; before that, the building was a speakeasy called Buddy’s Rendezvous. According to Karen, Gus and other employees worked for Ford and the automotive industry before dedicating themselves to pizza. It just so happens that the first pans used to create Detroit-style pizza are said to have been inspired by the automotive industry. Buddy’s would go on to have several owners over the decades and eventually expand into nearly two dozen locations across Michigan. The pizzeria was also an inspiration or starting point for a few pizza makers who would go on to open their own Detroit-style endeavors, such as Loui’s Pizza. After parting ways with Buddy’s in 1953, Gus himself went on to purchase Cloverleaf Bar in Eastpointe. He continued his Detroit-style legacy on the east side for years, where nine locations of Cloverleaf Pizza continue to operate today.

Related: A Father-Son Luncheon At Loui’s Pizza in Hazel Park

I walked to one of the extra seating rooms, where Wes and I discussed his entry into the world of Buddy’s 48 years ago and what it’s been like to see the pizzeria and its popularized style grow over the decades. Watch our sit-down interview below:

Full interview with Buddy’s Pizza Chief Brand Officer Wes Pikula

Afterward, I spoke with Karen about her book and findings along her pizza research journey. Karen is very well-spoken and has a long history of covering Michigan and Detroit from her publications Better Made in Michigan and a travel guide to Motor City called Secret Detroit. She’s also written for several publications, including the Detroit News, Time Magazine, and U.S. News & World Report. Watch my discussion with Karen Dybis below:

Full interview with Metro Detroit reporter/Author Karen Dybis

One of my biggest takeaways after speaking with Wes and Karen was that not only does Buddy’s Pizza strongly identify with the history of Detroit, but it is the birthplace of a style of pizza that has, in a sense, made Detroit a staple in the culinary world and pizza scene alongside the likes of New York and Chicago. It’s something great and enjoyed by many around the world nowadays. Its history and creation were literally molded by Detroit manufacturing, built within the city that knows hard work. Detroiters created it and through their various disputes and decades of healthy competition and split-offs, eventually inspired the style to be interpreted around the globe. This furthers Detroit’s name and important legacy as we continue to rise again as a city.

After the interviews, I finished gathering my interior b-roll. Because of my career over the years, I’ve gotten used to being in “work mode” when out on a shoot, so anything outside of that purview is kind of blurred out from focus. However, it wasn’t until I started shooting as an independent blogger did I realize how silly one looks in public at an establishment walking an alongside track shot with your phone. Look at it this way, folks are getting a meal and a show, and you’re getting above-par videography! Anyways, as I was getting my last couple of shots, a server came by to deliver some mouth-watering personal pizzas to a 5-top (industry jargon for five people at a table), and I knew I had to get some reaction/serving shots. While somewhat awkward at first, I quickly gave my foodie blogger spiel to the kind people at the table and learned that I happened upon a rare and momentous occasion by chance. One of the patrons informed me that essentially everyone else at the table was a first-timer to not only Buddy’s Pizza — but to Michigan! The woman explained that as a local, she was determined to take them to some iconic establishments during their trip, so of course, these folks had to experience some Detroit-style pizza! I was, unfortunately, running short on time, as I had to leave and pick up some stuff from home on the way to work, so I didn’t get a chance to get any of their reactions or interviews on video. But seeing their eyes dilate as their square pies were placed before them one by one and seeing the immediate nods and grins after the first bite, I knew I had just witnessed several fantastic foodie firsts!

Compliments to the chefs: the original kitchen staff of Buddy’s Pizza and the staff of today!

Regardless of which chain ultimately makes your favorite Detroit-style pizza, we can all agree that having this style to call our own is something worth being immensely proud of. The Detroit-style pizza has a rich history interwoven with the city and its culture and is shared and enjoyed worldwide. So whether you’re sitting down at Buddy’s or Cloverleaf, picking up an order from Jets, or stopping into Loui’s, enjoy that next slice with extra pride. But above all else, thank Gus Guerra and Buddy’s Pizza for our beloved square-shaped pizza that the world gets to enjoy.

To learn more about the history of Detroit-style pizza, I strongly recommend checking out Karen’s very well-researched and insightful book by clicking here. To learn more about Buddy’s Pizza and its history, click here.

2 responses to “The history of Detroit-style pizza: All roads lead back to Buddy’s”

Leave a comment