Testa Barra shines as a community staple in Macomb with stellar food

Pictured: Testa Barra, the Roman-Style Mac Saturn & Cheese pizza, and seasonal risotto

Macomb Township, MI — After some much-needed time for my lunch to settle following my adventure to Biercamp in Ann Arbor, it was time for my next adventure, a.k.a. dinner! My day of foodie adventures began with my barbecue lunch adventure with my sister and was a great success, so I was going into dinner with a lot of excitement!

Several months ago, I interviewed husband and wife rockstar co-chefs Mike Baldwin and Gabriella Rodriguez-Baldwin for work. Mike and Gabriella run Testa Barra in Macomb Township near 22 Mile and Romeo Plank roads. Testa Barra is all about contemporary Italian cuisine, with a focus toward Northern Italian dishes. The interview was regarding Mike heading off to Sin City (Las Vegas) to compete in the annual International Pizza Challenge, which brings some of the best pizzamakers from around the globe together to test their recipes and styles. It was an enjoyable and great interview, and during our post-interview conversation, I promised to adventure up and check out their restaurant. The laid-back, humorous, and yet still very professional demeanor of Mike and Gabriella gave me the impression that they not only care for and support one another in their endeavors, but they really care about their profession and the environment they’ve established at their restaurant.

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I knew this adventure was going to yield a lot of hearty Italian cuisine, so I enlisted my friend Erika who lives in the area, to join me. Within a couple of miles of the restaurant, I noticed the sprawling neighborhoods to my left and right as I drove north along Romeo Plank Road. Some homes/neighborhoods looked relatively new, but overall the area seemed to be very family-friendly and growing at a significant rate. I pulled into the parking lot and met up with my friend Erika as we headed into Testa Barra for our 6 p.m. reservation.

Even from the outside, I could tell the interior was extended and quite sizeable. Testa Barra features an enclosed patio on the side and has a private dining room, which appeared to be in use on this particular evening. The first impressions after walking in brought an immediate smile to my face as I scanned from right to left. The interior almost felt like a home, with the tables and seating areas feeling like rooms without walls. The sections themselves felt intimate but were spaced enough apart from each other to feel like your own unique area. The raised corner to the right of the entrance featured live music being played, and scattered throughout the sections was cool and artsy neon signs and artworks. The ambiance was welcoming, and felt like a great gathering place for community members and families to relax and enjoy a meal, which was apparent since the place was packed! 

Pictured: The cool and stylish interior of Testa Barra

We were immediately greeted by Director of Operations & Sommelier Jeffrey (Jr.) Baldwin. That’s right, another Baldwin! Jeffrey is Mike’s brother; as you might now be guessing or realizing, this is indeed a family business! For those unfamiliar with the Baldwins, Mike and Jeffrey are the sons of Jeff (Sr.), and Rosemarie Baldwin, who own and operate J. Baldwin’s a bit south in Clinton Township. So it’s no surprise Mike and Jeffrey (Jr.) found themselves in the restaurant world. Jeff (Sr.) and Rosemarie founded the Baldwin Restaurant Group in 2016 when Mike and Gabriella were officially added to the group. Mike and Gabriella opened and took the helm of Testa Barra in June 2017.

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I’m always excited to meet a fellow Jeff (it’s a Jeff thing), and we chatted about how Mike crushed it in the International Pizza Challenge as he led Erika and me through the bustling restaurant to our spot near the bar and with a full range view of the kitchen. I’ve always been a fan of the open kitchen concept. I think it’s important for patrons to see the hard work (and sometimes immense stress) that goes into preparing the hundreds/thousands of meals throughout the night, along with whatever challenges arise along the way. It provides more understanding for the guests while keeping the staff tentative and on their A-game. The Chef’s Table was really cool, and I loved the design the Baldwins’ deployed for their kitchen and bar area.

Pictured: The ‘Chef’s Table’ at Testa Barra

Erika and I looked through the menu and determined we’d splurge a bit and get an appetizer to split and three entrées to share and sample. During this time, I also looked around and observed the staff’s flow and the restaurant’s vibe. The vibe was quite healthy, with several large groups of families, friends, and even a couple of date nights, all seemingly enjoying their meals and atmosphere. From where I sat, I couldn’t spot a single frown at any table; everyone seemed positive and happy to be there. The staff was amicable and attentive, with multiple servers and bartenders (I think by the time we left, we were helped by/chatted with about 6 or 7) coming by to either refill our waters throughout the evening, to remove our used plates, and to ask how we were doing and if we needed anything. When it was time to order, Erika and I chose the Gochujang Brussels as the starter, then the Sun-Dried Tomato Risotto (seasonal), the Roman-Style Mac Saturn & Cheese pizza, and Figa Biga pizza. Needless to say, we were prepared to take home some leftovers!

Up first to be delivered was the Gochujang Brussels. I’m a big fan of Brussels sprouts and often make them at home. Erika is a fellow sprouts enthusiast, so our selection for this appetizer was an easy one, and oh, was it a great choice! The roast and cook on the sprouts was perfection, and the right amount of gochujang chili sauce saturated the sprouts with some sweet kick, ensuring no sprout would be dry or bland. As you’ll note below, several delicious (and rather large) crisps of garlic were scattered throughout the plate as well. I absolutely love garlic, to the point where I’m sure if vampires existed, I would be forever safe, and let me tell you, these crisps were an excellent addition just by themselves or with a sprout. The scallion aioli was a new experience for me. I enjoyed the slight smokiness and spice this aioli added on top of the gochujang chili sauce, but only when dipped in moderation. A great, small plate starter!

Pictured: The Gochujang Brussels at Testa Barra

With barely half a sprout remaining after a couple of minutes, it was time for the risotto. During our quest to conquer the small plate, we were routinely checked on by the servers and staff, including my fellow Jeff as he walked around to ensure the staff and patrons had what they needed as well. Staff cleared the small plate for us, and barely a minute later, one of the most visually appealing risottos I’ve ever seen was placed before us. Like me, Erika spent about ten years in the food industry and is a big fan of risotto, so we were both excited to try this dish.

The seasonal risotto served was the Sun-Dried Tomato with sautéed spinach, herb ricotta, fresh pecorino Romano, and tender pork belly. I thoroughly enjoyed the tomato base and creamier consistency. Although the sauce dominated the rice slightly, it was packed with such great flavors and seasonings from the sauce and sautéed spinach; I didn’t mind not having the rice be more prominent than the portioning of sauce. The generous plop of herb ricotta added even more creaminess with earthy and garlic tones. This paired significantly well with the sharper and more tangy pecorino Romano cheese. The dish was creamy, cheesy, and downright delicious! And, of course, to top it all off, the savory and tender bits of pork belly really full send this into Flavortown, with all parts coming together in perfect foodie harmony. If I were to have it again, I think an optional heat upgrade would be cool, like diced cherry peppers or crushed red pepper flakes to garnish.

Pictured: Testa Barra’s Sun-Dried Tomato Risotto

With about a little less than half of the risotto remaining, Erika and I decided to hold off on finishing it to save room for at least a slice or two of the pizzas, which were simultaneously nearing completion in the ovens. Before it was pizza time, Mike was able to spare a few minutes to come over from the kitchen and chat. He and Gabriella were actively chef’ing it up and running their kitchen like two veteran generals, working in seamless tandem. Like any dinner rush, it was quite the active kitchen, with servers running like clockwork as plates were placed under the heat lamps. I caught up with Mike and celebrated his rendition of risotto; it was truly remarkable and exploded with savory and cheesy flavors. He and Gabriella were glad I was finally able to venture up to check out their restaurant and meet them, and I joked they would need to keep me posted if they planned on competing in any upcoming food shows or challenges! After all, Mike/Gabriella and the Baldwin clan have racked up a few wins on shows like Guy’s Grocery Games and Family Food Showdown!

Before long, Mike had to hurry back over to the kitchen to keep the ship in order. But it was also… pizza time! Erika and I decided on the Roman-Style Mac Saturn & Cheese and Figa Biga pizzas. The Roman-Style Mac Saturn & Cheese is a loaded specialty pizza with a plethora of toppings: Italian sausage, garlic confit, herb butter, serrano peppers, caramelized onion, asiago, shaved parmesan, smoked gouda, honey, and sea salt. Right out of the gate, I was digging the three-cheese blend, especially the smoked gouda, which I knew would go great with the sausage and garlic confit. The honey was an interesting addition but gave the pizza a sweetness in addition to the garlicky sweetness from the confit and the heat from the serrano peppers, which were pleasantly and perfectly spaced across the pizza. This pizza has a lot going on but for all the right reasons regarding taste and presentation. It is a sweet heat delight with copious amounts of cheese! Oh, and you want to talk ingenuity? This pizza comes served up on a skateboard! This was hands-down one of the most gourmet specialty pizzas I’ve had in a while, but that’s to be expected from a chef who throws down at international pizza challenges!

Pictured: Roman-Style Mac Saturn & Cheese (left) / Figa Biga (right)

The Figa Biga caught Erika’s eye; it was a souped-up vegetarian with about as many toppings as the Roman-Style Mac Saturn & Cheese. This delectable pie featured Parmesan crust, mozzarella, smoked gouda, asiago, fresh pear, fig preserves, goat cheese, arugula, lemon juice, truffle oil, balsamic reduction, and sea salt. Every bite from this pizza had a little bit of everything going, with a nice sweet vinegary finish. The mozzarella and balsamic reduction paired well, as the reduction also did with the fresh pear slices. My only tangible negative takeaway was that the crust could have used more Parmesan and the pizza a bit more asiago. While I am a fan of arugula, the leafiness could have been softened or dampened a bit more, perhaps even simmered separately in a pan with the reduction before being added on after the pizza was taken out of the oven. Overall, it’s still a great pizza and a solid choice for anyone looking to avoid meat!

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After our meal, Gabriella was able to take a turn to stop by and chat for a bit. She had been working devotedly in the kitchen, kneading dough to make pizzas, dispatching orders to her kitchen staff, organizing completed orders, and directing servers. Erika and I praised the food, as it was all rather excellent. Chatting with Mike and Gabriella rounded out the entire experience, as they’re just such kind and welcoming people. I discussed the restaurant’s ambiance with Gabriella, complementing the artwork, layout, and addition of live music (which was pretty great!) for guests. Gabriella explained building that sense of community at Testa Barra was what she and Mike aimed for, hoping to be that spot folks and families can count on when they are looking for a solid meal any day of the week or for any occasion. And looking around, it was quite apparent the community felt the same way.

Although Erika and I were there during a dinner rush wave, you could tell quite a few (if not most) patrons and families had been to Testa Barra before and seemed very familiar with the establishment. And while I live about 40 minutes away, this is, without a doubt, a restaurant I would be more than willing to make the occasional drive for to experience Mike and Gabriella’s artisan pizzas and gourmet Italian dishes. The exceptional staff and service certainly aid in enhancing the dining experience as well! If you’re a resident of Macomb Township or find yourself in the area for whatever reason, stop into Testa Barra for a great meal in a great environment facilitated by great chefs and people. Rest assured, you’ll find yourself adding Testa Barra to your lexicon of go-to restaurants!

For more information about Testa Barra or the Baldwin Restaurant Group, visit their website here.

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